Help with project

Discussion in 'Predator Costumes' started by MonsterMask, Aug 14, 2018.

  1. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    Hi guys
    I need your help with my project. I am making costumes (3d printed, eva foam, paper-bondo) but first time will put my hands on latex and predator style costume (I mean materials ) .
    I am making Nanosuit from Crysis and thinkgin about making it from the same materials like Predator costume.
    My plan is :
    1) make 3d model
    2) scale it to body size
    3)3d print full costume
    4) make silicone molds of the parts
    5) make latex copy
    Now I have few question about 4 and 5 points.
    Is it better to make parts with joints so part is going in other with some extra piece? So when I will make latex part will be going a little bit in side of other - arm into torso part(small overlap) .
    I do not know anything about using latex so not sure about making copy using molds. Usually I use cast resin to make pieces.
    What types of paint need to use for elastic costume? I have Airbrush 0.5 nozzle. .

    I will be grateful for any help from you . Even if you will just guide me with the link for other topic about my problems.
    When I will finish this project I can make one or two extra helmets for members only for materials costs.
    Thank you
    p.s. One photo of Nanosuit and one photo with last project. icm_fullxfull.171158311_dhcrtqv5ng0s440ssgcc.jpg IMG_20180610_153950.jpg
     
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  2. lazybones88

    lazybones88 Blooded

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    any latex based paints should be fine when working with the latex from what I have encountered and I didnt use a airbrush. The airbrush puts a much thinner layer of paint on so you should be more than fine. For the cryo suit personally I would cast the thighs as one part and knee down to feet as another part because of the size for me personally. If you are able to 3D print the whole costume then thats totally awsome considering you know the base size but that is out of my price range to be able to do. ( you could even use the knee as foam armor if need but it wouldn't have the moveability as the latex) The torso with arms should be cast as one because of moveablilty and no way to hide the joint areas effectively.
     
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  3. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    Thank you for advice!! It is nice to see that somebody will help me with this :)
    I was thinking about making arms like sleeves and then put torso. Your version is like one piece with zip on the back? What about using latex? Can I just make silicone mold and then use latex to make a cast? Can you guide me for good tutorial or just use what I will find in main topics? I know how to use cast resin, fibreglass etc but never used latex before.
    I have 4 3d printers and if I need I can buy 2 more . How many latex need to buy for something like this? I have few thousands for project but need to be careful to not waist materials.
     
  4. lazybones88

    lazybones88 Blooded

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    Damnnnnn! If you are doing the entire thing in latex it will be at least 5 gallons I think. The arms made as sleeves wouldnt be bad but the costume calls for a alot of movement so having them unattached to the shoulder would cause a lot of stress on that area. It would be fine for a little bit but would most likely damage after use. Yeah a zip in the back then cover cover the zip up. And you want to have a hard mold for the latex cast. I believe the basics are hard to soft and soft to hard for molds and casting. I made my molds from plaster and cast in latex afterwards. Just like when you cast resin, you use a softer mold like liquid rubber then or silicone.This video is about casting and molding a predator mask. . Predator legs being made
     
  5. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    so basically I can not use silicone for making this costume? I need to make hard mold if I am planning to use latex? I will loose shape of model if I will use silicone? Do you have link for type of plaster for hard mold? I do not want to use fibreglass bcs os smell . I know I can use cast resin mixed with special powder making this like plastipaste (I use this for shells for molds)

    CAn you check this link? they are saying something about using this latex for flexible moulds

    Liquid Latex - Brush On / Dipping Latex
     
  6. lazybones88

    lazybones88 Blooded

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  7. lazybones88

    lazybones88 Blooded

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    The first video with the Ultracal is the same application in using plaster here is another video. . This guy walks you through the entire process in different videos.
     
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  8. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    Do you think that costume will be enough flexible because of the muscle ? what thickness I can make using latex to have flexibility and durability?
     
  9. lazybones88

    lazybones88 Blooded

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    I think you may have to play around with the thickness you want it to be so its not stiff.
     
  10. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    I have the helmet. Top part will be rom cast resin when neck piece will be from latex or similar material. Not sure about how to glue this (plastic with latex) and also do I need to make hard mould of the part where want to use latex or I can just use the same silicone mould and make neck from latex. So one cope will be plastic helmet and then cut off neck piece. Then will make second cope -only latex neck and glue it to hard helmet.
    kask1.jpg kask2.jpg
     
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  11. lazybones88

    lazybones88 Blooded

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    It would be better if you made a hard mold for the latex cast.
     
  12. lazybones88

    lazybones88 Blooded

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    I have never used a silicon mold for a latex cast though. U may want to research it first
     
  13. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    I have full helmet now. Small problem is with precision of 3d printing and sizes of pieces. I need to finish helmet and use bondo to fix connection between pieces.
    I want to use cast resin for hard pieces and latex for soft parts(neck) .
    After looking for materials I have idea about making mold of costume from one shop. Here is idea how to do it:
    "One way around it would be to make the 3d print, mould in silicone, spray the silicone mould in release agent and cast silicone into silicone, demoulding to leave you with a soft silicone part which you could then cast the resin over and demould once cured" Only problem with this is amount of silicone and clay what I need to buy. Also when I will take out silicone body from silicone mold , whole body will be jelly and moving to much.
    IMG_20180926_150306.jpg IMG_20180926_150314.jpg IMG_20180926_150324.jpg IMG_20180926_150335.jpg
     
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  14. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    First version of the body is done
    body1.jpg body2.jpg body3.jpg
     
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  15. Shogun

    Shogun Hunter

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    MonsterMask Plastic with latex can be glued with Crazy glue or Siliconized Calking (normaly used for bathroom joints)...it takes about 24 hours to dry thought. I sugest the transparent calking. Nice 3D concepts by the way (y)
     
  16. lazybones88

    lazybones88 Blooded

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    Looking good
     
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  17. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    Thank you
     
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  18. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    Small update.
    Helmet is 10% bigger then scale of the body. So I decided to make longer neck and keep 100% size of the body and use 10% bigger helmet. Other way will be to hard to connect helmet(with the neck) with the body when neck is bigger then rest of the body. Also not sure about this type of connection when latex will be elastic .
    Now I am making two part mold . Still have few point where I can work more but will be easier to sand and work with bondo on piece from one material then working on PLA mixed with bondo.
    44433688_337122327053337_8832299218556157952_n.png IMG_20181020_163142.jpg IMG_20181020_163146.jpg IMG_20181020_163153.jpg
     
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  19. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    First raw cast is ready. After this silicone mold I know about few mistakes. Area where is nose - I have air bubbles so need to put first layer of cast resin using brush or just cut off and 3d print this small details. I do not use vacuum pomp with vacuum container to take air bubbles from silicone (I do not have it yet-expensive) so always small details like this will have small air bubbles. Maybe will buy some vibration (not *****:p ) to attach to the table and use vibrations to take air bubbles from silicone etc.
    Second mistake is I should make gap between shells . Silicone is shrinking few % so need to squeeze more shells but can not- I just do not have gap . Also need to make reinforcement for the shell . Weight of silicone mold(around 10kg) is changing a little bit shape of mold when you hold it in the air and then you have bigger gaps between silicone pieces (connection of front part and back part) . Last mistake is modelling clay to make mold. It is hard to take it out from connection lines of first part before adding second part silicone mold. Next time I will use wax clay. Cost more buy is a lot easier to take out. IF I will have problems I can always use hair dryer to melt it and take it out using wet/dry vacuum machine .
    Now I am making experiment with small silicone mold from Halo. I need hard mold for 3d printed part so will add silicone in side silicone mold and need something to separate them. Other way I will loose 100-150kg silicone ......... so I just sprayed silicone mold using wax spray . Then filled this mold using the same silicone. . Then I will make hard shell (this shell will be my new hard mold for latex part) the same way will be with full costume. Only this wax spray will help me to make this project. I tried using latex in silicone mold and no chance . With plastic- no problem. Holding very stron to the surface IMG_20181021_101714.jpg IMG_20181022_161115.jpg IMG_20181022_162241.jpg IMG_20181022_162311.jpg IMG_20181027_094338.jpg IMG_20181027_094345.jpg IMG_20181027_094353.jpg IMG_20181027_094359.jpg IMG_20181027_123320.jpg
     
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  20. lazybones88

    lazybones88 Blooded

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    very nice job. Did you make a mother mold to go around the silicone? Still a very very clean job. Also the clay is ALWAYS a pain to remove from the mold, at least for me. I had a tooth towards the end getting out the fine details.
     
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  21. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    Thank you :) I will make neck piece and hands soon and show you this process . Just finishing 3d printing hands today.
     
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  22. Shogun

    Shogun Hunter

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  23. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    IMG_20181028_202018.jpg IMG_20181102_174146.jpg IMG_20181102_174155.jpg IMG_20181102_175424.jpg IMG_20181102_175430.jpg IMG_20181102_185417.jpg
    Idea with silicone cast is working -only problem is cost of wax in spray. I will try to use first neck silicone mold to make hard mold for latex neck . If this version will be not the best I have other idea. I will make plastic copy of the neck and then use casting plaster on plastic cast. Then just use hairdryer to make plastic soft and take it out.
    Need bigger hole in the helmet to put head. I just made the biggest hole cutting out only neck but think I need also remove lower back piece and make some king opening system with magnets.
     
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  24. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    I cut the visor and back piece. It's still a bit tight to put your head in the helmet but slowly moves are helping to not scratch my ears lol.gif . I am making silicone mold for this back piece so I do not need to use big and heavy mold fors small piece like this. I will try lenses from my paintball mask and see how it looks like.
    I have also 3d printed hands and will make silicone mold in next week. I am 3d printing everything in 0.2 layer bcs will take ages to print so many pieces. Atm I am 3d printing arm. IMG_20181103_164136.jpg IMG_20181103_164227.jpg IMG_20181103_164241.jpg IMG_20181103_164251.jpg IMG_20181103_164314.jpg IMG_20181103_164340.jpg
     
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  25. MonsterMask

    MonsterMask Unblooded

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    How thick layer of latex I can paint? I painted 4 normal layers and now using thickener and not sure how thick this layers must be.
     

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