MacGuyver's Bio-Helmet ***Lots of Pics***

Macguyver

Blooded
This is it everyone...this is how MacGuyver makes a Bio-Helmet!!!

But I've got to tell you this first. I've always been far more fascinated & captivated by the Bio-Helmet than the creatures actual face. Guess I just enjoy the element of mystery it creates about whats actually behind the mask. Plus, each Bio-Helmet has the most range for an individual's creativity to run wild. So when I began making my suit, I knew that I was going go with a Bio & I'd never have to worry about making the Preds face. All thanks to the idea I had of building the Bio & Dreads as one single unit.

I started w/ a 100% coverage JT Paintball Helmet, only $30 @ Walmart. It's comfortable, has fog-resistant lenses built-it, a chin strap so it won't flop around and the outer shell allows total freedom to attach almost anything to it. I first taped over the lenses w/ a piece of FOAMIES that I'd pre-cut the Pred eye shape to prevent any scratches & crap from getting on them during the creation of the rest of the helmet. I used wire mesh & GREAT STUFF to form the basic structural shape & form for the Bio. It took several applications of GREAT STUFF, while cutting & sanding away any excess in between applications. I used about 2 large cans of GREAT STUFF & 1-2 of the smaller cans to fill in any air pockets that happened to form inside while it cured.
Once I'd gotten it down to the desired shape, I covered the entire Bio area with SCULPTAMOLD to give it a smoother look of solid metal. SCULPTAMOLD is like a perfect medium between clay & plaster. (Get it..."medium" ...that's a double pun!) It dries to a rock-hard solid in about 30 mins. It can then easily be detailed w/ a Dremel, sanded smooth & painted/finished.

I also used this same GREAT STUFF+SCULPTAMOLD method for a variety of other parts of my suit!

I attached the dreads by sitting the head upside-down & began gluing the upper & outer most layer first to ensure the best looking & longest ones would be the most appearant. I used GORILLA GLUE to attach them to the rear of the paintball helmet w/ toothpicks to keep the dreads where I wanted them to be while the glue dried. Then just pulled the toothpicks out after it al dried. PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT THE EASIEST WAY TO DO THIS, BUT IT WORKED WELL FOR ME (I didn't yet know about the LAIR!)

IT WAS INCREDIBLY FUN & ALSO RATHER CHEAP TO MAKE!!!
I'D LIKE TO EVEN MAKE ANOTHER USING THIS SAME METHOD!!!


Here's some pics of the process, I'll be glad to answer any questions anyone has about it!!! ENJOY!!!

IMG_1795-BioUndersideView.jpg

IMG_1799-BioRightTopDETAIL.jpg

IMG_1798-BioLeftTopDETAIL.jpg

IMG_1800-BioLaserDETAIL.jpg

IMG_1802-BioLaserDETAILFRONTVIEW.jpg

IMG_1801-BioFrontNEWDETAIL.jpg

IMG_1808-BioGlowingBlades.jpg


Img_1194.jpg


Helmet___Shoulder_Armor1.jpg


Helmet___Shoulder_Armor2.jpg
 
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DangerDavey

Hunter
Personally, I think that your construction method borders on "insane genius" for a first Predator suit.

Well done!!

BTW, I've found and alternate brand of spray foam that works even better than Great Stuff. It's called Touch n Foam and does not distort as much as Great Stuff's current formula.

~DD
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Personally, I think that your construction method borders on "insane genius" for a first Predator suit.

Well done!!

BTW, I've found and alternate brand of spray foam that works even better than Great Stuff. It's called Touch n Foam and does not distort as much as Great Stuff's current formula.

~DD

Awwww...THAT'S ONE OF THE NICEST THINGS I'VE EVER HEARD ANYONE SAY ABOUT ME!!! (Most just go w/ the "insane" part) B)

I'll look into the Touch n Foam...it does sound familiar. I'd only experimented w/ one other brand & got horrible results from it. I've also since thought about trying some of SMOOTH ON's products, but I still have a couple more cans of Great Stuff left to use (said while snickering diabolically).

THANKS DD!

P.S. - CAN ANYONE GUESS WHAT I USED TO MAKE THE SHOULDER ARMOR SHOWN IN THE PICS??? ;)
 

ANUBIS

Unblooded
Very cool, Question the sculptamold dose it stick to resins and plastics... I have a old bio that i would like to build my own creation... do you think that would work...
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Very cool, Question the sculptamold dose it stick to resins and plastics... I have a old bio that i would like to build my own creation... do you think that would work...
SCULPTAMOLD will adhere well to most surfaces. If you're planning on using it on resin or plastics, I recommend that you score it heavily w/ sandpaper or a razor blade to give it something to stick to or also try gluing down a small piece of wire mesh to the area you'd like to build up. Another trick I learned to get it to stick to smooth surfaces was to put a THIN layer of GORILLA GLUE on the surface & then cover over it w/ SCULPTAMOLD. Be careful though, because the GORILLA GLUE WILL expand over the first hour of dry time, but can still be shaped into any shape you need it 2 b.
Just b sure 2 wear some disposable gloves when using GORILLA GLUE!
 

recoil1701

Blooded
Cool helmet. I usually sculpt my bio out of polyurathene foam and then coat with fiver glass... same for all my hard ware with the exception of my spears those I use pvc pipe sculpted with a dremmel tool....


Jesus
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Cool helmet. I usually sculpt my bio out of polyurathene foam and then coat with fiver glass... same for all my hard ware with the exception of my spears those I use pvc pipe sculpted with a dremmel tool....
Jesus
Thanks! :rolleyes:

I'm curious about the fiber glass coating that you used on your mask & other suit parts. What brand did you use? Did u have any problems during the application of the fiber glass?

For quite some time now, I've been planning to give my mask & suit parts a stronger, more durable finishing coat. Before I do this, I'd like to do a number of modifications to give much more detail to the mask/misc parts of which I didn't have time to do when I'd created it.
I've been planning on using THE WEST SYSTEM BRAND EPOXY RESIN, it's said to be the best quality epoxy resin by boatbuilders, for marine repairs & sealing boat hulls...no word yet on using it on Predator's though. I've read the West System User Guide/Product catalog which gives great detail, of all the info for selecting the correct type of hardener needed to get any type of specific results one desires, like the structural consistancy, clear coating, bonding, finishing, etc. All this info is also available on the weblink below.

WEST SYSTEM BRAND HOMEPAGE

The West System products I'd like to use, cost around $50-$60.

How do you think this compares to the fiberglass coating method you used?
 

1 UglyMofo

Unblooded
Cool costume Macguyver. Is any of it made from chewing gum... only kidding :rolleyes: Are you planning to do a write up on your armor construction?
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Cool costume Macguyver. Is any of it made from chewing gum... only kidding :) Are you planning to do a write up on your armor construction?
No gum...tried using 143 toothpicks, 2 magnets, 9 thumbtacks & a dog whistle!!! But alas...didn't look as cool as it sounds!

As far as my armor goes, yes...eventually i'd like to do one here, just got a lot of other stuff to do b 4 that.
 

the DustRoom

Unblooded
Thanks for the info here - I was wondering about creating just a bio-ony Predator as I'd never remove the bio anyway so wouldn't need the mask.

Can you tell me if it'd be possible to attach a bio to a Paintball helmet instead of sculpting it as I'm rubbish at making things?
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Thanks for the info here - I was wondering about creating just a bio-ony Predator as I'd never remove the bio anyway so wouldn't need the mask.

Can you tell me if it'd be possible to attach a bio to a Paintball helmet instead of sculpting it as I'm rubbish at making things?
I don't see why not. I've thought about doing that myself, but I still prefer to create as much of my suit as I can on my own.


BTW dragonpred3433, I bought the lasers at good ol' Ebay from a seller called "sureelectronics". Got a damn good deal on 'em too...got all 3 laser diodes w/ shipping all the way from China for around $10.
 
can celluclay be used instead of sculptamold?
i made a bio out of celluclay before. it didnt turn out great. it seems that no matter how much you smooth it out, when it dries it turns into a lumpy rock. then you have to find something to fill the crevaces and cracks. and the more it takes to smooth everything out, the heavier the bio gets. in the end it made a pretty cool display, but i wouldnt wear it. i made my new bio out of paper mache on a cardboard frame, taped to a duck tape dummy head. and im really happy with it.
[URL="http://www.thehunterslair.com/index.php?sh...ic=3656&hl="]http://www.thehunterslair.com/index.php?sh...ic=3656&hl=[/URL]
 

Syk0 Mauler

Blooded
im using this method to make my bio and i just went and got all the stuff i need exept for the dreads
and i thought about it for a while and i decided to put plastic wrap over my paintballhelmet that way if the great stuff messed up or dindt turn out right i could just take it off and it worked so then the idea hit me to just do that the next time also that way i can make multiple bios and just switch them in and out using magnets or something on the paintball helmet with out havieng to buy a new paintball helmet and dreads and all that kinda stuff . . . .
. . . but. . .
i am having a really hard time shaping the great stuff the way i like
are there any tips and hints on how you did it just alil more information?
 

roundhammer

Hunter
i made a bio out of celluclay before. it didnt turn out great. it seems that no matter how much you smooth it out, when it dries it turns into a lumpy rock. then you have to find something to fill the crevaces and cracks. and the more it takes to smooth everything out, the heavier the bio gets. in the end it made a pretty cool display, but i wouldnt wear it. i made my new bio out of paper mache on a cardboard frame, taped to a duck tape dummy head. and im really happy with it.
[URL="http://www.thehunterslair.com/index.php?sh...ic=3656&hl="]http://www.thehunterslair.com/index.php?sh...ic=3656&hl=[/URL]

I'd recommend using the Paper clay brand product
Paperclay

I just got done using this very material to sculpt over a resin and fiberglass predator helmet and had excellent results. As long as you wet the surface you want the paperclay to stick too, the bond should be fairly good. You'll also want to seal it with something, like varnish. It's still a somewhat soft material even after it dries, varnish or some other sort of sealer coat should make it more durable.

*edit to add*
You should be able to find paperclay at most any hobby store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby.
 

Macguyver

Blooded
with the sculpta-mold does it go one smooth or do you have to put it on then sand it and add more layers?

As w/ almost any type of sculpting materials, it's going to require a little work on your part. Sculptamold is actually rather easy to smooth out as it has a short drying time. Just keep smoothing it out w/ a wet finger & the surface will dry out to be quite smooth. Adding on as a few separate layers should work best, otherwise it takes a lot longer for one thick layer to fully dry out, plus by doing it as a few separate layers will help make it a great deal stronger overall. There's no real need to sand it though if you're going to add another layer on top of it, as it'll adhere better if you do not sand between layers. You should also do a bit of experimenting w/ it on a separate piece to practice using it & to get a better feel for it.
 
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