Paint Job On P1 For Member Kgc

bweapon

Blooded
Traditional P1 paintup of my mask for member KGC.

This is a couple of hours last night and a couple today. Crappy camera , doesnt show the layers of the blues reatly but you get idea.

Thanks and enjoy, any questions welcome!

enjoy.

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Next brown spots, then ALLLLLLL the black ones (hand painted I think!) then all the little mouth veins, then the final litle bits, spots etc and done!

Too easy right? o_O
 

tehfailsafe

Blooded
Nice start, looking forward to it.
What are you using for paints? I'm just starting to paint a few pieces myself.
 

KGC

Blooded
Here's my girl! Weapon .. is fantastic! Continue to update us!
Very nice! :D :D :D
 
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terryrussen

Unblooded
always good to see a paint job, im liking this paul. :D lets see this one blossom in to another fantastic piece from the lair.
 

bweapon

Blooded
Didn't know liquitex made inks, was looking into FW.
Though I'm still not sure if I need to mix it with prosaide, or do a prosaide base by itself and straight ink on top. Are you mixing the ink with the varnish or putting it on as a coat after? Also do you mean the gloss medium & varnish stuff or the varnish flexible surface? Both descriptions seem to be "flexible", is that enough to help the ink not crack?

Been though many many posts on here about it, and it seems there are many options, not sure on which I want to do yet so just askign those who have some experience.
yeah i think everyone has there own technique. Basically the fact is that no matter what anyone says there is no way to make paint last for ever on a latex suit that is being worn so youre never gonna get 100%.

But this is what ive done. after prep and clean down I basically do what others do, my own way maybe, but use the liquitex as an alternative to prosaide for us in the UK.... as recommended by Lee (Usurper) in other topics. *thanks.

Cover the whole piece in a good even layer, it goes on really easily with something like an oil paint brush, or just a 1inch brush and dries thin and almost invisible. The matte varnish when dry is almost as if it evaporated so its really good to avoid over 'shinyness'. just be sure not to let any well up in the little details.

After that initial coat I use a mixture of white acrylic, white ink, thinner and the matte flexible varnish run through an airbrush to build up a few of base coats. I mix them approx equal parts, but just do it by eye in the airbrush hopper. This will vary for everyone but i personally cant too much of the varnish through as it blocks my airbrush, but as long as i give it a good clean out between coats its okay.

Then its just paint that bad boy! i use nothing but the liquitex inks for colour, and every few layers cover the whole thing with another coat of varnish. to this point in the progress pics for example ive probably stopped and let the whole thing thoroughly dry and given a varnish layer about 5 times if that helps?? Once ive finished with a colour/area is basically when. It helps give depth aswell as providing a barrier between coats for when your airbrush decides to fart black ink all over your detail work all of a sudden. You'll stand a better chance of being able to rescue such disasters.

N.B allow the painted area to dry THOROUGHLY before brushing on another layer of the varnish and work as quickly as you can working your way from one point to the next, not going back over the varnish as its drying. Agitating the varnished surface after the varnish has reached a tack stage will seriously disrupt the paint work below. On the flip side this can be done on purpose to achieve textured effects!

I think apart from that the only other thing that i can say to hopefully help is if you JUST CAN'T QUITE see the paint going on, then you're doing it right. The more thin layers, so thin you cant even see one, the better the final effect.
And never under any circumstances try and airbrush latex in the DARK!

:)
 

Usurper

Veteran Hunter
But this is what ive done. after prep and clean down I basically do what others do, my own way maybe, but use the liquitex as an alternative to prosaide for us in the UK.... as recommended by Lee (Usurper) in other topics. *thanks.

:)

I have NEVER said or used LIQUITEX as a replacement for pros aide, LIQUITEX is the best UK equivelant to PERMAWET. But prosaide is readily available in the UK.

LIQUITEX gloss medium and varnish is designed to be a top coat sealer.

Paint up looks sweet though, going to be a evil looking mask when you are done with it.
 

bweapon

Blooded
oh, usurper you are correct, it wasnt you who said it sorry.

ah well, the matte flexible is a life send anyway,and works amazingly!

Thanks everyone!
 

made007

Elite Hunter
what method are you using on the spots, i used a stencil i made ans sprayed black with the airbrush, also what paints are you using?, thanks for sharing
 

bweapon

Blooded
Hey, im just brush free handing them with transparent and regular inks then fading the edges with an airbrush.Post #8 here ive gone into more detail on the overall tecnique im using.

Quick update at 5:15 AM and its bed time!
Spots... first coat... on the front, pretty much done! the whole area is still to be darkened but i want to achieve that look gradually with lots of delicate layers especially around the eyes to avoid too much solid colour with all the black thats just gone on it!
Thanks for looking...

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bweapon

Blooded
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still another layer at least on all the spots.Im trying to avoid just laying down straight black for hopefully a very natural look. The camera flash changes the colours, at least from my eyes anyway but its getting there. In real life I would say the orange is much LESS orange and the black is much MORE black!
but hey im doing what i can with the camera i have, its probably more me at fault than the camera.

If it helps im sort of working from the centre up and out, so if you look carefully you'll see the black spotting in the centre of the head working upwards is much softer and natural looking but then as you get further out some of those spots are only on there second coat so look much harder and less realistic.

Anyway no real dramatic changes now, just detailing and finishing off, so the next update will probably be the final piece!

Until then please feel free to leave any comments/questions. Thanks,
 
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