Spear Automation

fantazar

Blooded
No doubt this has been bought up time and time again in the past, but I've missed everything, so I'd like to know whether anyones ideas on automating a Pred Spear actually came to a reality or not?

I have an idea and I'm just waiting to hear back from a couple of companies regarding products which I feel may just work.
 

fantazar

Blooded
Yes, but the only thing I see wrong with those is that they are not very long when open.

What I've done is take 2 x 12ft Fishing Rods that are exactly the same.
Cut each one into 3 x pieces that fit inside each other (telescopic) and made the necessary pieces to fit onto (spear tips, etc)
Each 3 x pieces extended measures 4ft in length.
Join the 2 x biggest pieces by screwing the reel adjusters together.
This mad the Darth Maul style you mentioned @ a total length of 8ft.

Now I DO have a an idea of automating the extension/retract, and the company I wrote to recommended a few products that would make it work.
However, I've not had time to purchase these products yet but will soon.











I was thinking the same thing, and I think I have an idea, but will require some ingenuity.
Take a couple of these batons(longest length possible(, and find a way to connect 2 together kind of like a darth maul saber.Since some are spring loaded they should shoot out nicely.

[URL="http://www.martialartssupermarket.com/inde...mp;row_start=11"]http://www.martialartssupermarket.com/inde...mp;row_start=11[/URL]
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Ok, since I'm still quite a new member here at the Lair, I was going to wait a little longer before I gave everyone a peek at this rather ingeniously simple little invention of mine. Although, since the topic in question has been raised, I feel it's my duty as a member to offer whatever help I may at this time.

Below are pics & notes describing my own original design ;)
...I'VE CREATED A FULLY EXTENDABLE & LENGTH ADJUSTABLE PREDATOR SPEAR!!!


LIST OF PRIMARY MATERIALS I USED:
1 - 16" EXTENTION PVC PIPE/TUBE (1 1/2" DIA) w/ THREADED ENDS (purchased from HOME DEPOT)
2 - 4" LENGTH PVC PIPE/TUBE (1 1/2" DIA) THREADED END ADAPTERS (purchased from HOME DEPOT)
2 - LEGS FROM A CAMERA TRIPOD (RAIL/TRACK SLIDE TYPE, NOT "TUBE" STYLE), EACH LEG HAS TWO LOCKING LEVERS (used for adjusting the length of each leg) (I bought this particular tripod from a local Goodwill store)
1 - POLYPROPYLENE PLASTIC CUTTING BOARD*
(Used to make the spear tines/blades, cut out & carved into shape)

* = POLYPROPYLENE PLASTIC CUTTING BOARD was used for a number of reasons.
PRO: First, its made of plastic, so even though it's shaped into sharp edges, it can still be taken anywhere without being confiscated as an actual weapon! Second, the polypropylene plastic is almost unbreakable!!! It's soft enough not to chip/crack if spear gets dropped from any other sudden impact occurs, yet it's also a VERY hard/dense material, so it will keep any shape its cut or formed into.
CON: The oils in the plasic itself made it a pain in the arse to get paint to adhere. I had to score all the pieces immensely w/ 60 grit sandpaper & added a min. of 4-5 thin coats of paint. In the end, I still think it was all worth it.


WHEN RETRACTED INTO ITSELF, ITS ONLY 2' 10" (34 INCHES).

IMG_1472___Spear_Closed_full_length_view.jpg


THE LOCKING LEVERS ALSO FUNCTION AS SAFETY LOCKS ON BOTH SPEAR ENDS. THEY LOCK FIRMLY AT ANY CUSTOM LENGTH I CHOOSE.

IMG_1473___Spear_End_Locked_top_view.jpg


IMG_1475___Spear_End_Extended.jpg


WHEN UNLOCKED, THE SPEAR ENDS SLIDE IN & OUT W/ EASE & LET THE PULL OF CENTRIFUGAL FORCE TO DO ALL THE WORK TO SHOOT BOTH ENDS OUT TO A FULL SPEAR EXTENSION BY A 180 DEGREE WRIST TWIST!!!
WHEN FULLY EXTENDED, THE LENGTH IS AN AWE-INSPIRING 7' 2" (86 INCHES)

IMG_1476___Spear_Extended_full_length_view.jpg


IMG_1474___Spear_End_Unlocked.jpg


THIS WAS THE FIRST PREDATOR PIECE I'D EVER MADE! THE CATALYST SPARK THAT GOT ME HARDCORE INTO MAKING MY ENTIRE SUIT & SEVERAL OTHER INGENIOUS INNOVATIONS FOR ACTUAL WORKING GADGETS IN THE PREDATOR'S AWESOME ARSENAL!!!
 
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fantazar

Blooded
Great Spear mate!

Thanks for sharing

One question:
Are the extensions hollow or solid?
I can see potential with this perhaps.
 

Bovine13

Hunter
I was thinking the same thing, and I think I have an idea, but will require some ingenuity.
Take a couple of these batons(longest length possible(, and find a way to connect 2 together kind of like a darth maul saber.Since some are spring loaded they should shoot out nicely.

[URL="http://www.martialartssupermarket.com/inde...mp;row_start=11"]http://www.martialartssupermarket.com/inde...mp;row_start=11[/URL]
Those things are hard to close. You literally have to smash them in to the concrete or similar to close em. I have toyed with the idea of electric car antennas.
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Great Spear mate!

Thanks for sharing B)

One question:
Are the extensions hollow or solid?
I can see potential with this perhaps.

Thanks right back at ya mate!

To answer your question, the extention tripod legs I used for this spear were a hollow & rectangular in the outer dia shape.
I found this full tripod at a local Goodwill thrift store for $10. The only problem I've had using these is that they're made of an aluminum & titanium alloy, which means that they can get slightly bent if enough force is applied, which prevents the track slides from functioning easily. Although, they ARE actually quite strong! I took a few more pics (below) that show a bit more detail of my spear for ya.

I have actually compared these extentions with another set I also picked up from a thrift store which are the solid enclosed "tubular shaped" type. I found using the "track/rail slide" type far more practical for my needs since it helped save a great deal of space on mounting them within the 1 1/2" PVC TUBE. To use the solid type would almost double the dia of PVC Tube, which would make it very bulky to handle. The 1 1/2" dia size I used can quickly & easily be spun around w/ only one hand to "shoot" open both ends of the spear, of which, earned an unprecidented thunderously loud applause during the final round of a costume contest I won last year! (Everyone that saw it, were entirely dumbfounded on how I'd gotten both ends of the spear to expand out simultaniously in less than one second!) Also, if they do happen to get bent, the "track/rail" type like I used is FAR easier to bend back into shape & straiten out again. The "tubular" type are almost impossible to bend back into their original shape if they ever do get bent.

I've also looked into using similar extentions from much higher quality equipment, like tripods used for really expensive telescopes & the kind used for precision laser surveying equipment for possibly making another spear in the future. Those kinds of tripods are often made from much stronger titanium/metal alloys. But I've yet to come across a good set that I really like thus far. Plus, like most of my costume, I've mostly used materials found at second-hand thrift stores. Ok, I admit it...I'm cheap. But by taking this route, I been able to experiment with an enormous variety of different materials & methods to find the BEST possible way to create some VERY COOL & innovative new "toys"! So, I'd HIGHLY RECOMMEND keeping a regular eye out on your local thrift stores...you never know what you may find next there!

IMG_1479___Spear_End_hollow_track_detail.jpg


IMG_1478___Spear_End_detail_view1.jpg


Enjoy the pics! If you'd like any more help or advice, just ask! I'm always willing to help anyone out in any way I can! ;)
 
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Aquis Hydro

Blooded
Macguyver, I think you may have solved my Combistick problem!! ;)

How do you make it retract? Do you just push the ends in or something?

Now that I think of it, is it possible to add motors? Then it would extend/retract at the touch of a button.

Totally loving the blades!! Polypropylene cutting boards? I was thinking of making Armour out of that stuff.
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Macguyver, I think you may have solved my Combistick problem!! :lol:

How do you make it retract? Do you just push the ends in or something?

Now that I think of it, is it possible to add motors? Then it would extend/retract at the touch of a button.

Totally loving the blades!! Polypropylene cutting boards? I was thinking of making Armour out of that stuff.

They don't call me MacGuyver for nothin'!

Retraction is incredibly simple...gravity!!!

I'd thought about using some type of springs or bungee cords but it just got waaaay more complicated than it needed to be. All I do to retract it is, with the lever locks open (unlocked), I just turn the spear vertically and the upper sections collapse into themselves. Looks very cool when done as I crouch down to a kneeling stance because then, it allows both ends to close simultaniously. It's actually works more like a very cool optical illusion to anyone who's watching it, kinda makes me feel like a magician from the looks on some of their faces ( B) ;) ), but it more than does the trick!!!

As far as adding motors go, I really don't know if it'd be possible to pull off. That just starts making it, once again, WAAAAY more complicated than needed. All of my Pred weapon concepts start from a few key aspects...primarily being that it MUST BE highly reliable & durable (strong). Few things are as embarassing as having a sweet looking gadget like this, only to have it fail or malfunction in public. TRUST ME, when even the smallest aspect fails to work right, "that guy" will always be there to point it out to everyone else!!! I don't know about you, but I hate "that guy" & don't ever want to see him again!

Plus, right now my spear weighs less than 2 lbs!!! Adding motors or other stuff just makes it bulky/harder to handle w/ ease.

I ALWAYS REMEMBER "K.I.S.S." ---> KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!!
(I've thought about just getting this tattooed on my forehead!!!)

Also, not too sure about how well the cutting board plastic would work for armor. It's doesn't bend at all...maybe if you heated it or something like that. But there's much better materials to make armor out of, try looking into PVC FOAMBOARD. It's like sheets of really strong yet bendible plastic. Check the boards, I know I'd posted some more about this material yesterday.
 

SixSinsFor66

Blooded
Macguyver...awesome work man. Ive thought of using pvc tubing and loaded springs in the inside..Just press a release hatch and both ends shoot out. Now all i gotta do is figure out a way to retract both ends. Anyways nice job man
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Macguyver...awesome work man. Ive thought of using pvc tubing and loaded springs in the inside..Just press a release hatch and both ends shoot out. Now all i gotta do is figure out a way to retract both ends. Anyways nice job man
Thanks! ;)

I too, battled the whole automatic extension/retraction thing. The only way I can think of that could even possibly have the physical power & ability to do both aspects would be to use pneumatic actuators (air cylinders). I did a pretty good amount of research on linear pneumatic actuators/thrusters myself when I was coming up w/ new ideas & concepts for my blade gauntlet. But that all got scratched out due to the large costs of creating something like that.
Although, if cost was not a factor at all, I believe there's a very good chance that some type of dual-motion pneumatic actuator or air-cylinder COULD do the trick.
If you'd like to look further into this, the BIMBA Company's products are a good place to start.

Here's the link to their website: BIMBA Company

GOOD LUCK IN THE HUNT!!! B)
 

fantazar

Blooded
Continuing on from your last comment MacG, I have looked at the possibility of using CO2 Paintball bottles with Electric Solenoids to open the valves when you press the switch.
The valves then push the CO2 through the tubing from the valve to the end piece of the Spear, putting pressure on it to force it out.
With strong elastic attached inside the tubing at approx ½ the length of the Spear when fully stretched, this shouldn't put too much pressure on the elastic.

My thought is that if continually holding the switch, the Spear will stay out while the elastic inside is stretched.
Upon releasing the switch, the gas is released through the valve and out an exit hole in the casing, and the elastic retracts the Spear again.

My 2c worth...........Game Over!
 

Macguyver

Blooded
Continuing on from your last comment MacG, I have looked at the possibility of using CO2 Paintball bottles with Electric Solenoids to open the valves when you press the switch.
The valves then push the CO2 through the tubing from the valve to the end piece of the Spear, putting pressure on it to force it out.
With strong elastic attached inside the tubing at approx ½ the length of the Spear when fully stretched, this shouldn't put too much pressure on the elastic.

My thought is that if continually holding the switch, the Spear will stay out while the elastic inside is stretched.
Upon releasing the switch, the gas is released through the valve and out an exit hole in the casing, and the elastic retracts the Spear again.

My 2c worth...........Game Over!
Certainly sounds like a solid possibility!

My first worry about it is that it could be a real pain to achieve a fully 100% air-tight seal inside the tubes while still allowing them to slide out/in freely. But that mostly depends on what you'd be using for the extending ends of the spear. The only other thing I can think would give you trouble is that it does sound like it's getting rather technically complicated. Although, your theory IS quite sound...remember that you'll want to be able to hold it easily in one hand. By adding CO2 tanks, it'd require a much larger dia. of main shaft, which could get bulky. Or even if the tanks are routed via tubing to your belt or something like that, it then leads back to the likelyhood of a leak in a seal or crack in the tubing. U may also want to have some type of locking latch to keep the tubes "in" after the elastic retract.

I've never worked much w/ CO2 powered devices myself. It'd just make me far too uneasy using highly-pressurized contents that are attached to a home-made device...even more so, when that same device will be strapped onto someone.

But if you've already had some experience working w/ it, I'd say GO FOR IT!! Keep us posted on ur progress!
 

Unblooded

Blooded
GRRR...I posted something about this just a few days ago & got one reply...but I guess this is an older topic on the subject, guess I gotta do abit more reading into the older ones.

LOL oh well at least I got my answer (macguyver thats TWO that I owe you now...), I guess us newbies have to earn our stirpes...
 

punhulk

Hunter
GRRR...I posted something about this just a few days ago & got one reply...but I guess this is an older topic on the subject, guess I gotta do abit more reading into the older ones.

LOL oh well at least I got my answer (macguyver thats TWO that I owe you now...), I guess us newbies have to earn our stirpes...

seems that is true but im sure we will in time un blood =)
 

Pmanderfx

Hunter
No doubt this has been bought up time and time again in the past, but I've missed everything, so I'd like to know whether anyones ideas on automating a Pred Spear actually came to a reality or not?

I have an idea and I'm just waiting to hear back from a couple of companies regarding products which I feel may just work.

you need to use a linear rail slide, or the rail itself with the bearing housing,,its the only way to get the length as shown in the film, You could then incorporate 2- 24 vdc maxon gearmotor on each side of the main spear housing on each end in the opposite direction giving you the full length of the linear rail.

being as the big part of the spear the main housing, you could then incorporate electric tubing (grey, like PVC ) on each side so you can then also hide the batterys in the main part and keep everything inside with no external parts, you could use C batterys to fill each Electrical tube equiling 12 volts on each side combinibng the volts to a 24 volt output, plus this balences out the spear when holding it.

then add small limit swiches to where to want the rail to stop and this will reverse the polarity for you to hit the same button to bring it back in. just like a linar actuator.

hope this helps

Pete
 
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