Wrist Blade Gauntlet (functional)

Thanks!

I was considering a spring for the next one. I'm looking around locally for some springs. I have a couple of ways I will be testing. The springs that I tried all ready where simply too stiff so I stuck with the rubber band. At first I tried to make it a true double action which has a spring loaded action in both directions. That required more pull length then I wanted.

If I were to replace the rubber band in this configuration I would put it next to the leaf spring. Two light springs flanking the leaf spring would be ideal to keep the forward tension and avoid the twisting or biasing to either side. This would keep everything together on the bottom and allow for creative changes to the top. The springs wouldn’t need to move the whole 8” to be effective either. Just strong enough to eject the blades. Like a catapult on an aircraft carrier. The rubber band doesn't hold the blade forward as it is and that's why there is a forward catch.

I could also go with a spring on top. The hard part would be satisfying my need to keep it simple. Mounting points need to be beefed up etc. and the heaver the spring pull is the more a rail of some sort is necessary.

If I were to go to a guide rod down the center of the tube then I could use a pushing spring against the blade block. It would have a pocket in it for the compressed spring height. A lot like a rifle's recoil spring. But that's back to more parts.

I'm going for reliability, so if a few more parts keeps it relible than I would be for it.
 

nismo300zx

Blooded
Thanks!

I was considering a spring for the next one. I'm looking around locally for some springs. I have a couple of ways I will be testing. The springs that I tried all ready where simply too stiff so I stuck with the rubber band. At first I tried to make it a true double action which has a spring loaded action in both directions. That required more pull length then I wanted.

If I were to replace the rubber band in this configuration I would put it next to the leaf spring. Two light springs flanking the leaf spring would be ideal to keep the forward tension and avoid the twisting or biasing to either side. This would keep everything together on the bottom and allow for creative changes to the top. The springs wouldn’t need to move the whole 8” to be effective either. Just strong enough to eject the blades. Like a catapult on an aircraft carrier. The rubber band doesn't hold the blade forward as it is and that's why there is a forward catch.

I could also go with a spring on top. The hard part would be satisfying my need to keep it simple. Mounting points need to be beefed up etc. and the heaver the spring pull is the more a rail of some sort is necessary.

If I were to go to a guide rod down the center of the tube then I could use a pushing spring against the blade block. It would have a pocket in it for the compressed spring height. A lot like a rifle's recoil spring. But that's back to more parts.

I'm going for reliability, so if a few more parts keeps it relible than I would be for it.
Yeah man, you definitely should at least consider making and selling these. It could be worth your time.
 

AngReed3180

Unblooded
WOWOWOWOWOWOW!!!! I AM SOOOO EXCITED RIGHT NOW! (hopped up on MtDew) but seriously... the design is so fluid, so simple and yet so solid!!!! If you wouldn't mind, I'm going to get working on modifying my *failed* design to work like yours? I'm using a sign maker's ultra high density foam board (this stuff is ridiculously strong) as my blades, and *was* in the process of building a housing from foam-core to mold with... but I think I'll go in your direction if I may.
 

Guan Thwei

Elite Hunter
I must say Shawn I'm really impressed with the blade gauntlet system I hope that I will be working mine here pretty soon.
 
Thanks guys for excited (and jittery) responses.

I slipped in the bathroom and hit my head and now I have the vision for the next rev. It's going to travel through time. Your just going to need to run 88 miles per hour.

Ok, I didn't hurt myself. But I did have a moment of clearity. So, I'll be working on a new version soon. I'm trying to finish sculpting my bio. Yes, I know I'm skipping my bomb gauntlet. There's a part I need and I have to wait a couple weeks to buy it. Meanwhile I'll just work with what I've spent my cash on. :)
 

AngReed3180

Unblooded
I'm not sure, but I THINK the material I got from my sign buddy is in fact ABS... so the question is, what heat max can I use to re-shape the gauntlet itself to work so well as yours? also, what spring-steel did you use for the locking mech?
 
I'm not sure, but I THINK the material I got from my sign buddy is in fact ABS... so the question is, what heat max can I use to re-shape the gauntlet itself to work so well as yours? also, what spring-steel did you use for the locking mech?
I've been considering getting a huntorial together on plastics that I've worked with.

I'm pretty sure I'm at about 250°F-270°F when I shape the ABS. The Sintra is a PVC and when I do bigger pieces it's more like 200°F. When in doubt, start low and go up. You want it just hot enough to be pliable. The peices dont stay in the oven long. You'll want the plastic on a piece of metal. I use a couple of peices of stainless scrap I have. ABS is very hard to work with a heat gun but retains heat well. Sintra is good with the heat gun but it cools down quickly.

The spring was also made of ABS. A strip bowed in the middle. The hooks were pieces that went through it (and glued) so that it wouldn't come out under pressure.
 

Azrael

Unblooded
That gaunt is looking suuhweet! :)

really like the way it moves in the video.
I think two of these bad boys would look really great. I'll probablly go for two blade gaunts on my own suit in due time.

Looking forward to see that second version you mentioned.
 

AngReed3180

Unblooded
I've been considering getting a huntorial together on plastics that I've worked with.

I'm pretty sure I'm at about 250°F-270°F when I shape the ABS. The Sintra is a PVC and when I do bigger pieces it's more like 200°F. When in doubt, start low and go up. You want it just hot enough to be pliable. The peices dont stay in the oven long. You'll want the plastic on a piece of metal. I use a couple of peices of stainless scrap I have. ABS is very hard to work with a heat gun but retains heat well. Sintra is good with the heat gun but it cools down quickly.

The spring was also made of ABS. A strip bowed in the middle. The hooks were pieces that went through it (and glued) so that it wouldn't come out under pressure.
Thanks for that! I think what it is based on what you said is likely sintra then, as I've heated it with my heat gun and it didn't warp too terribly much.
 

AngReed3180

Unblooded
bladeGauntletBreakdown.jpg

The main tube and blades are made from 1/8" ABS. The blades are two pieces laminated together to eliminate the hair cell from showing.

Most of this wasn't really measured, it was cut to fit.
The blade assembly is 1-5/8"W x 2"H
The I.D. of the launch tube is 1-7/8"W and 2-1/8"H
The tubes length is now 11.5"
The blade length is just shy of 15"
So the overall length when retracted it 15"
Extended it's 23.25"
-So it has a 8.25" stroke-

The top cover was rounded over for looks and the blade block was rounded to match it. The U shape cutout was so that it could go another 1/4" further out and I add a second catch on the front because of this.

Because of the way I folded the plastic it radiased a little more than I inteded and therefore I had to have more space either on top or on the sides. I left it on the sides. This allows for free unbound movement. I added small things I'm calling guide spacers that take up the wobble when fully extended. They aren't need when retracted because of the rubber band tension.

The two issues I've been trying to minimize are the binding on the rubberband and the rubberband herniating forward. With loose tolerances the binding is gone and I have the rubberband tethered to the middle near the screw to minimize the herniation.

Does that awnser your questions on this, or where you looking for screw sizes and stuff?
Now that I think about it, you know those jack-knifes they used to issue in the military? flick the button forward and it pops out, back and it retracts... if the tension was such that it was effectively neutral in the middle, might it be able to auto in and out?
My dad gave me one when I was younger, and I have since lost the dang thing, but I think the concept should work for this yeah?

bladeGauntletBreakdown.jpg
 
Now that I think about it, you know those jack-knifes they used to issue in the military? flick the button forward and it pops out, back and it retracts... if the tension was such that it was effectively neutral in the middle, might it be able to auto in and out?
My dad gave me one when I was younger, and I have since lost the dang thing, but I think the concept should work for this yeah?
Yes, thats a double action knife. It uses a kind of a sping cartridge that has tabs on both ends that apply the tension only when the switch is moved. The tension builds up and then the blade is released. The blade and the spring cartridge moves forward and locks. Then the same thing to the rear.

I tried to do that to my design and it required about 2 inches of pull to get enough tension on the springs I tried to get it to move completly out. Mainly due to the mass of the blades. I decided that it wouldn't fit in the size I wanted to make the pull any less. So, I went with what you see. The locks are adaptable to a double action style, its just not really practicle. I considered a solinoid and linear actuator to do the pull. However the actuators I've tried needed too much juice to be practicle too.
 

AngReed3180

Unblooded
Yes, thats a double action knife. It uses a kind of a sping cartridge that has tabs on both ends that apply the tension only when the switch is moved. The tension builds up and then the blade is released. The blade and the spring cartridge moves forward and locks. Then the same thing to the rear.

I tried to do that to my design and it required about 2 inches of pull to get enough tension on the springs I tried to get it to move completly out. Mainly due to the mass of the blades. I decided that it wouldn't fit in the size I wanted to make the pull any less. So, I went with what you see. The locks are adaptable to a double action style, its just not really practicle. I considered a solinoid and linear actuator to do the pull. However the actuators I've tried needed too much juice to be practicle too.
HOLY GEEZ! You really are on top of things!
 

webchief

Blooded
AMAZING! This is very impressive! I think I'll be looking to build something very similar for mine when I get there.
 

AngReed3180

Unblooded
Hokay... Here's where I'm at thus far... I opted to just scrap my old blade design and housing as the drawer rails do hold them in place fairly well... but any kind of "spring" action is effectively nil... SO, I've begun cutting THE new-and-improved-tried-and-true-blade-guy method... I got a hold of some more sheets of 1/4" sintra from my bud at the shop, sketched them out and started to cut/trace out the design. I'll be going just a tiny bit longer (~ 17" x 3.5") for the bigger return draw, and a little closed to the original curvy style (higher arch) for that "wicked" edge... no pun intended. I'm just going with the sintra now as a) I don't have any ABS and :) this is just going to be my negative anyhow...
NEXT I'll be modding the placement and small "sliders to get a good "SNIKT" sound as well as holding them in place. Question... as far as the housing, do you think sintra should be alright, or should I try to locate some ABS?
Here's an image of it so far... sorry it's not all pretty-fied, it's just a snappy. I also included an Xacto handle for comparison.
Blade_1_scale_size.jpg


EDIT: OH, also the silver on it is a common laminate for sign gloss/pre-cut so that's why it's all metallic...
 
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Hokay... Here's where I'm at thus far... I opted to just scrap my old blade design and housing as the drawer rails do hold them in place fairly well... but any kind of "spring" action is effectively nil... SO, I've begun cutting THE new-and-improved-tried-and-true-blade-guy method... I got a hold of some more sheets of 1/4" sintra from my bud at the shop, sketched them out and started to cut/trace out the design. I'll be going just a tiny bit longer (~ 17" x 3.5") for the bigger return draw, and a little closed to the original curvy style (higher arch) for that "wicked" edge... no pun intended. I'm just going with the sintra now as a) I don't have any ABS and :) this is just going to be my negative anyhow...
NEXT I'll be modding the placement and small "sliders to get a good "SNIKT" sound as well as holding them in place. Question... as far as the housing, do you think sintra should be alright, or should I try to locate some ABS?
Those blades look great!

If you do the housing right then I think Sintra could work. As you've noticed by now Sintra is kind of mushy and if you have any amount of stress on it and it will deform. The shape of the housing will be what would alow the Sintra to work and you need to make sure the bolt is secure and probably through the top as well. Any wiggle in it and you not going to have the longevity you'll want because it will wear through. The retaining catch will not last long if it's sintra, if at all, it's just too soft. The stress from the rubber band will bend the leaf spring right away and may simply just brake the catch. You'll need to resource something for that.

Another big thing that will be important is that your blades fit and move in your housing the way you want. i.e. no binding, snagging and such.

Hope this helps,
Shawn
 

AngReed3180

Unblooded
Those blades look great! :)

If you do the housing right then I think Sintra could work. As you've noticed by now Sintra is kind of mushy and if you have any amount of stress on it and it will deform. The shape of the housing will be what would alow the Sintra to work and you need to make sure the bolt is secure and probably through the top as well. Any wiggle in it and you not going to have the longevity you'll want because it will wear through. The retaining catch will not last long if it's sintra, if at all, it's just too soft. The stress from the rubber band will bend the leaf spring right away and may simply just brake the catch. You'll need to resource something for that.

Another big thing that will be important is that your blades fit and move in your housing the way you want. i.e. no binding, snagging and such.

Hope this helps,
Shawn
GAH! I didn't think about that... Well, I'm going ahead and using the cut-out for a model and casting in either smooth-on's resin or polyurethane, as I have both ordered, (advice as to stand up - durable casting material?) so the blades themselves should withstand, but I'll have to think of something for the catch - Metal? Hmmm... I'll have to keep looking for some ABS as the catch/housing at least...
BTW, just finished carving out the sintra blade itself, looks pretty bad a' but haven't sanded/finished it yet. It's also the 1/4th sintra if I didn't mention that before. I am at my fiancé's computer, so I don't have a way to upload a pic, I'll do that in the morn'.
Thanks for the support!
 
GAH! I didn't think about that... Well, I'm going ahead and using the cut-out for a model and casting in either smooth-on's resin or polyurethane, as I have both ordered, (advice as to stand up - durable casting material?) so the blades themselves should withstand, but I'll have to think of something for the catch - Metal? Hmmm... I'll have to keep looking for some ABS as the catch/housing at least...
I haven't used polyurethane and the resin I have is pretty brittle. When I start casting blades I won't be using the resin I have. The blades don't see a lot of stress in my setup. Its the block that gets most of the force. As long as the blades stay in shape when retracting them they'd be fine.

As far as the catch, if you can work with metal then go for it. I didn't try it because I was wanting to use the ABS for that. I'd think and 18ga or thicker strip could work depending on the tension.
 

AngReed3180

Unblooded
UPDATE:
So, here's a better image of my current progress, along with my old design (bottom blade) which was machined for me... a bit TOO perfect on the lines, so on the new one for casting, I hand carved and sanding as well to give it a more wild build feel. the new material is also NOT lamination of two separate sintra boards, and is so streamline.

Blade_2_scale_size.jpg


I'm actively searching for ABS now, as again the method you described works wonderfully!
I'm going to modify the spacers just a tad so that there will be some slight lateral movement (popping down closer to my knuckles) that will also serve as my forward locking mechanism (ABS lock-bracket).
I will also be testing out an idea to have a return action as well - but we'll see...
 
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