Wrist blade mechanism using an old CD-ROM mechanism

Elkman

Blooded
I got the idea to build a motorized mechanism to extend and retract the wrist blades using old computer parts. I initially tried to do it using parts from an old inkjet printer, but that didn't work out all that well. So, my friend Paul let me take apart some old, dead CD-ROM drives that he had laying around. The tray eject motor and its gearing work well to propel the blade out reasonably fast, and the teeth on the bottom of the tray provide the track for the motor to work against.

So, here's my gauntlet, showing the track on the top. I've actually mounted the teeth from two CD-ROM drives so it'd have enough forward/backward range.
WristBladeMechanism-1-600px.jpg


Here's another picture with the track and the wrist blades. I took the motor and gearing out of the CD-ROM drive and mounted them on a block between the blades. The motor moves with the blades, while the track stays fixed.
WristBladeMechanism-4-600px.jpg


And here's the result, with the wrist blades extended.
WristBladeMechanism-5-600px.jpg


(Oh, and when I say CD-ROM, they could have been dead CD-RW, DVD-ROM, or DVD-RW drives. I forgot what was what after I finished whomping on Paul's pile of old, dead electronics. )

WristBladeMechanism-1-600px.jpg


WristBladeMechanism-4-600px.jpg


WristBladeMechanism-5-600px.jpg
 
Excellent! Very slick.

Those blades are from MacGuyvers, right?

I know those little motors can be quick. Did you get some good speed out of it, or does it move at a tray speed?
 
As far as the blades go, I used a template from this thread to cut them out of Plexiglas. I think they are the Macguyver style, though I don't remember exactly.
Great, thanks for the vid... ;)

My son and I had a laugh when he pointed out that 3 of the related videos where mine (FordFastback).

Anyway, if you haven't seen MacGuyvers blades, he back lit them with a blue LED. alphatech686 has his gauntlet pics in that thread also. But he's got a cocking mechanism that is similar in function to mine.
http://www.thehunterslair.com/index.php?showtopic=2956
 
Thanks for the youtube video,really impressive.I do have a question about your wrist blades.What thickness of plexiglass did you use?And about how long are they?

thanks,Daren
 

Elkman

Blooded
The Plexiglas is 1/4 inch thick, and the blades are about 16 inches long plus the amount required to attach them to the white block.
 
Nice work, I cant wait to see it finished. I have a set of MacGuyvers blades that would work great in this. Your youtube videos are a hoot by the way. .'.
 
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Elkman

Blooded
I finished the top half of the sculpt last week, and I did the casting over the weekend. Here's how it all turned out:
RightGauntletComplete-1-600px.jpg

RightGauntletComplete-2-600px.jpg

RightGauntletComplete-3-600px.jpg

RightGauntletComplete-4-600px.jpg


I haven't painted it yet, as you can tell. I think it turned out good, though wiring the actuator switches to the motor mechanism has been a bit of a pain. I think it'll make a rather lethal impression when I show it off on stage, though.

RightGauntletComplete-1-600px.jpg


RightGauntletComplete-2-600px.jpg


RightGauntletComplete-3-600px.jpg


RightGauntletComplete-4-600px.jpg
 
That looks way cool.I have another question about your wrist blades?Do they taper at the tops and bottom?Also where the blades have the notches,are they tapered there as well?I have been trying various methods to make a set and have been running into a wall,and yours turned out really cool.

Thanks,Daren
 
Awesome job! Is this going to be activated by a button or switch attached on the hand? O'yea I sent you a PM too. .'.
 
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Elkman

Blooded
The blades are tapered at a 45 degree angle on both the top and bottom. I used my Dremel tool with a cutting tool to cut the original blade shape out of the Plexiglas, then used it as a router with a different cutting tool to cut the 45 degree angles on the edges of the blade. (It also gave me a good excuse to go to Home Depot to get the Dremel drill press.) I had to kind of shift things around a bit to do the routing inside the notches, but it worked out.

As far as activating it goes, I'm putting two pushbuttons on the top of the gauntlet to operate the blade -- one to extend the blade and one to retract it. I also have a couple limit switches in there to cut off the power when the blade is fully extended or fully retracted.

I'll get to the PMs later this morning.
 

Unblooded

Blooded
great Idea man...now I know what to do with the dead computers I have laying around my house LOL. I thought that they might be slow as the most computers CD ROM trays kinda move slow, but in the video it looks like there's no slowing these bad boys down. what kinda power source are you using?
 

Elkman

Blooded
Thanks for all the comments. As far as the power supply goes, the motor is a 12 volt motor, like other computer components that require a 12 volt supply. I'm using a rechargeable battery that I got from Batteries Plus. I'll probably connect into that for any other electronic work that I do with the costume, like the left gauntlet or the active camouflage netting.
 

Ei luj

Hunter
Elkman,

I love it, good job

I had been pondering how to do this beyond a spring and fishingline method, and your thread provides the elegant solution :D

I tossed my workroom for old CDROMs and pulled a couple dead ones apart... there are differences between 'em, that's for sure!

I put the motors on my bench supply and found they will run on 5v and take less than .1A

Now in addition to the main motor and tracks I've got a bunch of goodies, tiny limit switches, little 4 pin connectors, audio jacks, gears of all kinds; wahooo, this thread is an inspiration, many thanks!
---
Ei'luj
 
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