Wrist blade mechanism using an old CD-ROM mechanism

Elkman

Blooded
[quote name='ei'luj' post='198658' date='Apr 8 2010, 12:51 PM']Elkman,

I love it, good job

I had been pondering how to do this beyond a spring and fishingline method, and your thread provides the elegant solution :D

I tossed my workroom for old CDROMs and pulled a couple dead ones apart... there are differences between 'em, that's for sure!

I put the motors on my bench supply and found they will run on 5v and take less than .1A ;)

Now in addition to the main motor and tracks I've got a bunch of goodies, tiny limit switches, little 4 pin connectors, audio jacks, gears of all kinds; wahooo, this thread is an inspiration, many thanks!
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Ei'luj[/quote]

I couldn't get my motors to run at 5 volts -- I had to run them at 12 volts. I'm not sure why I can't get them to run at 5 volts, unless my power supply is wonky.

I'm glad I gave you the inspiration. Part of the fun of building costumes like this is coming up with new and interesting engineering solutions. (And, of course, it's always a lot of fun to take old electronics apart. )
 

Ei luj

Hunter
I couldn't get my motors to run at 5 volts -- I had to run them at 12 volts. I'm not sure why I can't get them to run at 5 volts, unless my power supply is wonky.

I'm glad I gave you the inspiration. Part of the fun of building costumes like this is coming up with new and interesting engineering solutions. (And, of course, it's always a lot of fun to take old electronics apart. )
How old were those CDROMs; I wonder if older ones run the motors on 12v and the newer ones run on 5v...
or if the issue they had was the motor itself?

now you got me to thinking

(goes back to tinkering, see what you started? j/k )

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Ei'luj
 
wow that is so awesome thanks for sharing mate o_O I love to see people on here use regular inventions to improve suits and this is da best for a blade mechanism XD
 

Elkman

Blooded
I just realized I never answered the question about why the motors wouldn't run at 5 volts. It turns out that my power supply was on the fritz, and instead of delivering 5 volts, it wasn't delivering anything at all on that output. It is delivering 12 volts, though.

I did some more experimentation and found that they'll work on a 9 volt battery. I'm using a 9 volt lithium battery, instead of a standard alkaline battery, in hopes it'll put out more juice. I also experimented with one of those 12 volt A23 size batteries, like the ones that are used in car alarm key fobs, but that didn't put out enough current.

By the way, my friend Paul gave me several more dead CD and DVD drives, so I could potentially build more of these for other hunters if my time permits.
 

Ei luj

Hunter
I just realized I never answered the question about why the motors wouldn't run at 5 volts. It turns out that my power supply was on the fritz, and instead of delivering 5 volts, it wasn't delivering anything at all on that output. It is delivering 12 volts, though.

I did some more experimentation and found that they'll work on a 9 volt battery. I'm using a 9 volt lithium battery, instead of a standard alkaline battery, in hopes it'll put out more juice. I also experimented with one of those 12 volt A23 size batteries, like the ones that are used in car alarm key fobs, but that didn't put out enough current.

By the way, my friend Paul gave me several more dead CD and DVD drives, so I could potentially build more of these for other hunters if my time permits.
Elkman,

Thanks for the update

9v battery is the simple solution.

Using 5v means adding more parts, and more batteries since they'd be 1.5v....

Yes, the lithium battery will last longer than the alkaline 9v and the A23 12v one.



Here's a nice Wikipedia on batteries, theres tables of the various sizes, voltages, and currents:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nine-volt_battery
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_%28electricity%29

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Ei'luj
 

newpred

Blooded
oh man i just remembered. Iwork in the carpenters shop at caesars palace and we have literally tons of scrap plexi glass long enough to make hundreds of blades and a band saw and sander and a buffer. *evil grin*
 

darkblade

Unblooded
Wow, that looks amazing. That's nice work, how did you construct the gauntlet? It has a lot of detail and looks incredible.
 

Elkman

Blooded
Wow, that looks amazing. That's nice work, how did you construct the gauntlet? It has a lot of detail and looks incredible.
I sculpted the gauntlet and the top housing out of oil-based clay, then made molds of them with Smooth-On's Oomoo 30 silicone. Then, I did the casting with Smooth-On's Smooth-Cast 300. I've used that combination for other projects, and it's worked well.

I probably could have saved some silicone by using their brush-on product, Rebound 25, for the wrist gauntlet (the curved part that goes around my forearm). The Oomoo 30 is a pourable silicone that goes into a mold box, whereas the Rebound 25 is brushed on in several layers and then reinforced with a hard plastic mother mold. But I'm digressing here.
 
hey can you put a video on to show its realism in more detail please





[/size]If you so much as strike me down I will become more powerful than you can possibly imagine
 
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jaded

Blooded
Awesome job on your gaunts man! Are you going to be selling the bomb gaunt countdown set up? If so I would be interested
 

munson

Hunter
Elkman, did you ever think about using your mechanism on a spear that would be made from a lightsaber? I know they are probably spring operated, but they don't close on their own [I think]. You probably would only have to use one track for each end and might be able to put the mechanism itself in the middle of the lightsaber, about could possibly power both off of the one mechanism.

Just something that was floating in my head, what do you think?
 

MattyNX

Unblooded
Hi Elkman.

I'm a newb in the area of predator making but i'm curious to know what setup your using for the motor, basically are you using a DPDT switch and where would the switch be placed on the costume?

I'm attempting to do something similar in my pred project and so far i'm kinda stuck in terms of what switch to use (i was kinda hoping to be able to use 2 SPST switches to control forward and back but from what i've read it needs to be a DPDT switch which kinda sucks)

Any advice you can offer would be of immense help.

Thanks mate and awesome work btw
 

Elkman

Blooded
Hi Elkman.

I'm a newb in the area of predator making but i'm curious to know what setup your using for the motor, basically are you using a DPDT switch and where would the switch be placed on the costume?

I'm attempting to do something similar in my pred project and so far i'm kinda stuck in terms of what switch to use (i was kinda hoping to be able to use 2 SPST switches to control forward and back but from what i've read it needs to be a DPDT switch which kinda sucks)

Any advice you can offer would be of immense help.

Thanks mate and awesome work btw
I used a DPDT momentary-contact switch. I had the switch concealed in the palm of my hand, connected to a ring that went around my finger. I engraved a clan symbol on it and called it my "class ring".

Actually, after I first built that setup, I changed to using two DPDT lever switches. One switch is velcroed on my index finger and extends the blades. The other switch is velcroed on my middle finger and retracts the blades. I did it this way because it's easier to press a subminiature lever switch than it is to press a large toggle switch.

I could post some pictures if that would help.
 
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